Below is the copy of a Des Moines Register article that ran October 26 
featuring Paul and Phyllis Willis.  However, check out the link to see all 
of the photographs.  Congratulations Willises.

http://www.desmoinesregister.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20051026/ENT02/510260328&SearchID=73224735560906

Happier hogs mean tastier pork
By ERIN CRAWFORD
REGISTER STAFF WRITER

October 26, 2005


Phyllis Willis isn't exactly sure how her recipe for Danish pork burgers got 
into "The Niman Ranch Cookbook." The new book from Ten Speed Press shares 40 
recipes for pork, lamb and beef, as well as the story of the Niman Ranch, 
its philosophy and its animals.

Willis' husband, Paul, runs the Niman Ranch pork operation, and together 
they host a meal at the annual Farmer Appreciation Dinner, where she has 
served the pork burgers at their farm in Thornton to renowned chefs who come 
in droves to the dinners. Some of those chefs have asked for the recipe, 
which was originally her grandmother's.

According to Willis, it's the only recipe she has.

"I'm a farm wife and I don't use recipes to cook," she said. "And we have 
the world's best meat, so this is my only pork recipe."

Some saltines, ground pork and diced onion — not much more than that goes 
into the burgers. The Dijon mustard listed by the cookbook as a condiment is 
strictly optional, according to Willis.

Willis' only recipe joins those of famous chefs from around the country, 
fans of the Niman Ranch brand who submitted their takes on its meat to book 
authors Bill Niman, founder of Niman Ranch, and Janet Fletcher, a food 
writer.

The book was suggested by the publishing company three years ago, and Niman 
knew right away that he wanted people who purchased it to learn more than 
just another way to prepare a flank steak.

"There's so much confusion about what's natural, what's sustainable, what's 
a family farm," he said, from his 1,000-acre ranch in Bolinas, Calif., which 
is in the middle of the busy calving season.

Though no official label for "sustainable" exists, Niman Ranch is setting 
its own standard, both for compassionate animal husbandry and full-flavored 
meat.

According to the Niman philosophy, these two things are inextricably linked. 
"We wanted people to make a connection between real farmers and animals and 
the land and hear the story and understand 'sustainable' is many generations 
on the same land. People on the same land, generation after generation, 
don't stink up the land or pollute, because they face their neighbors in 
church," Niman said.

"It's a wonderful way of life and it still exists. Though, in a way, we're 
the storehouse of that information."

Now the book is too, with its pastoral pictures of farming and detailed 
descriptions of the lives of Niman animals.

Niman hog farmers raise pigs according to the standards of the Animal 
Welfare Institute. They are fed a vegetarian diet and not given antibiotics 
unless ill. They nurse their young for at least five weeks

In short, on the Willis farm, pigs get to act like pigs.

And look like it, too. They have the round, chubby look of pigs, not bulky 
wrestlers.

This is because the pigs have a thick layer of back fat that makes it 
comfortable for them to venture outside during an Iowa winter, and their 
meat will be rich with pork flavor. These aren't the super-lean hogs in 
favor now with most pork buyers. Rather, they're older heirloom breeds that 
are comfortable living outdoors.

"A great deal of modern pork is enhanced to have any sort of juice," Niman 
said. "When you buy pork which is cheap, you're buying 10 percent or more 
salt and water, which is put in to give it juiciness, and which normally 
ends up in the bottom of the pan. Our stuff, it's the good old-fashioned 
pork."

The 40 recipes in the book were contributed by chefs and farmers alike, and 
thus span a wide range of styles, flavors and cuts of meat. Classics, such 
as Steak au Poivre, sit just a few pages away from restaurant treatments 
like Lamb Chops with Olive-and-Herb Crust or the Short Ribs Stracotto, 
braised in wine and topped with gremolata, and hearty simple fare, like the 
Spicy Chili or Ribs with Sauerkraut and Apples. Though some recipes hail 
from chefs who regularly practice don't-try-this-at-home cooking, the 
ingredients' lists are almost all reasonable.

Jeremy Morrow, co-owner and chef at Star Bar in Des Moines, was one of the 
chefs who made the cookbook's cut. He submitted three recipes, as chefs were 
asked to do, and his Grilled Pork Tenderloin Salad was chosen. The recipe 
has an "Iowa slant," according to Morrow, using Maytag blue cheese. "You can 
taste the difference in everything. The pork really stands out. Pork, when 
raised naturally, should be fatty and juicy."


RECIPES FROM "THE NIMAN RANCH COOKBOOK"

Lamb Chops with Olive-and-Herb Crust

Hungry for a lamb chop that wasn't grilled, chef Peter Salaya of the New 
Moon Cafe in Nevada City, Calif., devised this recipe.

1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon oregano leaves
6 large fresh sage leaves
2 cups crust-free French bread cubes (1-inch cubes)
1/2 cup pimiento-stuffed Spanish green olives
2 green onions, green parts only, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8 lamb loin chops, 1 inch thick

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Pat the parsley, rosemary, oregano and sage dry with a paper towel to remove 
any excess moisture. Put the herbs in a good processor and add the bread 
cubes. Process until the mixture has the texture of fine crumbs. Transfer to 
a shallow bowl and wipe out the food processor.

Combine the olives, onions, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the vinegar and 
pepper in the food processor. Pulse until a coarse mixture forms.

Cover each lamb chop on both sides with about 1 tablespoon of the olive 
paste. One at a time, press the coated chops into the bread crumbs, covering 
both sides with a firm, even coating.

Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large, oven-proof skillet 
over medium-high heat. Add the chops, in batches or using two pans if 
necessary, and cook until they begin to turn color, about 2 minutes. Turn 
and cook for 1 minute. Transfer to the oven and roast, turning once, for 8 
to 9 minutes total cooking time for medium rare.

Remove from the oven and let rest for 5 minutes. Serves 4.

Danish Pork Burgers

In the Willis home, these burgers are eaten like steak — no bun and no 
condiments needed. Willis also said other onions will do fine, so go ahead 
and replace the red onion with a white or yellow variety, if that's what you 
have in the house.

1 pound ground pork
1 red onion, finely diced
16 saltines, crumbled
1/2 cup whole milk
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil for cooking
Dijon mustard for serving

Combine the pork, onion, saltines, milk, eggs, salt, and pepper in a large 
bowl. Use a spoon or your hands to mix together.

Lightly brush a large, nonstick skillet with vegetable oil and place over 
medium-high heat. Divide the pork mixture into eight equal portions and drop 
from a spoon into the hot pan, spacing them evenly. (You might have to do 
this in batches or use two skillets.) The mixture will spread out and form 
small patties as it cooks. Cook each patty, turning once, for 4 to 5 minutes 
per side, until golden brown.

Serve the burgers piping hot with a dollop of Dijon mustard. Serves 4.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin Salad

This recipe was contributed by Des Moines chef Jeremy Morrow.

1 pork tenderloin, about 1 pound
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 small shallot, minced
1/2 pound red potatoes
Kosher salt
1/2 pound green beans, trimmed
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon honey
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 pound mixed baby greens
2 ounces mild blue cheese such as Maytag or Point Reyes Original Blue, 
crumbled

Prepare and light a charcoal grill for direct cooking.

Trim the pork of any excess fat or silver skin and let sit at room 
temperature.

Combine the vinegar and shallot in a bowl and let sit for 20 minutes to 
allow the flavor of the shallot to mellow.

Put the potatoes in a small saucepan and cover with water. Add a generous 
pinch of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook for about 10 minutes, 
or until tender when pierced with a knife. Transfer with a slotted spoon to 
a colander to cool.

Return the water to a boil and add the green beans. Cook for about two 
minutes, or until barely tender. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl of 
ice water. When cool, drain.

When the grill is medium-hot (when the coals are still red but turning gray 
and you can hold your hand over the grill for 5 seconds or so), season the 
pork with salt and pepper. Place the pork directly over the coals on cooking 
grate, cover the grill, and cook, turning two or three times, for about 20 
minutes, or until a thermometer inserted into the center reads 140 degrees 
F. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes.

Whisk the mustard and honey into the shallot mixture. Whisk in the oil in a 
slow, steady stream to form a vinaigrette. Season to taste with salt and 
pepper.

Put the greens in a large, wide bowl. add half the vinaigrette and toss to 
coat. Cut the potatoes into 1-inch cubes and scatter them over the greens. 
Scatter the green beans over the greens and potatoes. Cut the tenderloin 
across the grain into thin slices and arrange the slices over the greens. 
Sprinkle the cheese over the top and drizzle the remaining vinaigrette 
evenly over the entire salad. Serves 4.

All about Niman Ranch

Q. What is Niman Ranch?

A. Started as a beef business by Bill Niman in the 1970s, Niman Ranch became 
the favored meat of several big-name California restaurants, and now is a 
nationally known brand with chefs and consumers alike.

As demand grew, the beef side of the business expanded to a network of 
ranches, and lamb and pork were added. In 1994, Niman met Paul Willis of 
Thornton, Ia., who was raising pigs outdoors with all-natural feed and no 
antibiotics. The pork Willis gave Niman was so good, they went into 
business, and in 1998, formed the Niman Ranch Pork Co., which is separate 
from the original Niman Ranch operation. The pork company has its 
headquarters in Thornton and is half-owned by farmers.

Q. What's so different about Niman Ranch farming practices?

A. Niman Ranch animals are raised without growth-promoting hormones or 
steroids, never fed meat or meat by-products and only given antibiotics when 
ill. Niman Ranch pigs are not raised in confinements, which the company says 
are not as economically or environmentally sound as traditional methods of 
raising hogs.

Niman hogs are bred like traditional hogs, with a thicker layer of back fat 
and more marbling. Farmers are paid more for their pigs, too.

Q. Where can I buy it?

A. Niman Ranch is served at 30 restaurants in central Iowa; they often point 
out Niman Ranch dishes on their menus. If you want to use Niman Ranch beef, 
pork or lamb in recipes at home, you can buy it from Larry Cleverley of 
Cleverley Farms in Mingo. He'll be at the final Downtown Des Moines Farmers 
Market from 7 a.m. to noon Saturday at Fourth Street and Court Avenue, or 
e-mail him at [log in to unmask] You can also buy Niman Ranch products 
online at www.nimanranch.com.

Q. Does it cost more than the beef, pork or lamb I can get at the grocery 
store?

A. Yes. For example, two 7-ounce filet mignons cost $35.95 at 
nimanranch.com. Two 8-ounce filet mignons cost $19.98 at Hy-Vee.

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